Having obtained your E93A (should be 103E Popular or E494A Anglia as the E93A was the Prefect was 4 inches longer) Ford Popular, by following these simple instructions you should have no difficulty in transforming it into a 'Replica Edwardian Roadster'.
Before removing the original Ford bodyshell, remove and retain the following, including their respective mounting brackets:-
All lights, instruments and attendant wiring (the wiring may be left attached to instruments).
All electrical gear from the engine side of the bulkhead.
The starter cable, choke cable and handbrake.
The throttle pedal, and linkage, together with the plates from the brake and clutch pedals.
The steering wheel and steering column to bulkhead bracket.
The front and rear floor sections, and the small floor section round pedals. The front wing supports.
Retain the tin cover between the front chassis members in front of radiator.
When removing the bodyshell, the simplest way is to dismantle every part that may be be easily dismantled i.e. wings, bonnet, radiator shell and boot lid.
If the nuts are rusted on, cut away the metal surrounding the offending bolt, with a sheet metal cutting chisel or hacksaw, then attack with a cold chisel.
With all removable items off, cut around the bodyshell close to where it joins the chassis, again using previously mentioned tools, then chop off any remaining rivets or welds which retain the rest of the body.
The floor covering the fuel tank and acting as a base for the rear seat, must be cut away from the point where the rear seat drops at a right angle to join the floor i.e. the seat part is cut to leave the upright piece which is joined to the chassis either side. This helps to give a little more chassis stiffness - note 2. The fuel tank can now be removed. The chassis may be shortened by cutting off to the rear of the rear spring mounting chassis member.
The radiator must be removed. The fan must be cut down to not more than 10 and a half inches diameter - note1. The bare chassis may be steam cleaned or wire brushed. The original wooden rear floor may be replaced, or the chassis may be braced - note 2 - if desired. With the chassis thus prepared it may be painted.
The fibreglass Roadster body, with the seat bolted on, is slid into position over the steering column and pedals. Before bolting the body on, the fuel tank must be wired and connected, then bolted into position behind the seat, unless the luggage trunk is to be fitted, in which case a small hole may be cut in the body just behind the seat to enable the fuel pipe and gauge connections to be fitted with the tank in position.
The body locates on the chassis and must be pushed forward as far as it will go. Four holes must be drilled either side of the front floor; positions indicated. The running board mount must be placed in position, 41" from the front of the chassis and 38 and a half inches apart, and the chassis drilled to accept same. The running board, 46" long x 7 and quarter inches wide must be placed in position an equal distance between the wheels. The body may also be also be bolted on through the flange either side at rear above the rear axle - note 3. Another hole is drilled through the running board, flange on body and chassis, the rear mudguard then clamped between the running board and the flange. The rear mudguard mountings are placed in position and the chassis is drilled to accept same.
The front mudguard is bolted through the front edge of the running board, and the modified mounting is bolted to the front wing support. The 105E Ford radiator is bolted to brackets provided, and bolted in position 1inch from the fan.
The bulkhead will require drilling and cutting to suit individual requirements, to fit instruments, choke, starter, ignition switch, dipper, coil, cut-out and hand brake. Assuming that the wiring has been left intact, the lights, etc. may be reconnected as original. Front lights may be mounted on the front wing mountings but must not be more than one foot from the outside of car to centre of lamp. The rear lamps may be fitted but are a bit ugly, motor cycle type are better and easy to obtain.
The steering column may be raised by elongating the holes in the top of the chassis and placing washers between the chassis and steering box at the front bolt. Centre section of floor is replaced and small floor section around pedals. Drill floor to accept throttle pedal, and drill bulkhead for linkage. The linkage has to be bent to clear bulk-head on full throttle. The throttle return spring may be weakened fractionally by bending.
With the body bolted on, the join between the bulkhead and the body may be filled with body filler.
The car is then ready for painting. The simulated artillery wheel covers may be bolted to the original hubcaps. The seat may then be upholstered. The battery may be fitted on the running board.
You now have a complete Siva Replica Edwardian Roadster, various extras are available as per the Siva Brochure.
If only it were that easy! I was 18 or 19 when I built my tourer but my father was a mechanic in his past and we had fairly comprehensive workshop equipment to hand so maybe I faired better than other young constructors.
1. Knowing that cooling could be an issue, I fitted a Ford export water pump (available from the Ford Sidevalve Owners' Club) and mounted a full size fan lower on a "jockey" pulley - over 40 years, cooling has never been a problem.
2. On my Siva, I braced the rear panel (where the rear seat was on the saloon) with 1" square tube around the perimeter of this panel and this really did strengthen the chassis.
3. Mounting the body on 1/2" blocks of rubber reduces stress at the bolt locations and prevents squeaks as you waft along country lanes towards a suitable picnic site.